NEW YORK FASHION WEEKS FALL 2010 (tag: MEN'S WEAR)

March 03, 2010



DKNY: The Takeaway
Add brightly colored laces to your boots. As you can see, it is a killer combination.
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DKNY: The Take
The Breslin Bar & Dining Room at the Ace Hotel played host to an edgier DKNY collection than usual. Designers Donna Karan and Jane Chung layered youthful elements, mixing pops of stark blue with timeless favorites like nylon trenches and double-breasted suits. Tech-inspired pieces that were reversible highlighted the value and versatile sensibility you can expect from this line.
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Lacoste: The Takeaway
Add some unexpected color with bright accessories like gloves or a knit hat, especially if you're going to pair them with outerwear that's similar to Lacoste's new peacoats or suede jackets.
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Lacoste: The Take
Christophe Lemaire pops up the fall 2010 collection for Lacoste with '80s vivid colors and cozy fabrics with an emphasis placed on "deconstructing and rethinking the jacket." With that, outerwear became a central point of the collection, one of the best being a shrunken version of a peacoat with raglan sleeves. Another standout was the luxe suede blousson jackets, all sans crocodile.
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Simon Spurr: The Takeaway
Patterned pocket squares, billowing just so from your jacket's breast pocket, is like an exclamation point for your suit.
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Simon Spurr: The Take
With many of this week's shows so far concentrating on sportswear and outerwear, Simon Spurr's fall collection is chockablock with the kind of ballsy, brash, eye-popping tailoring that is too often missing from New York Fashion Week. Channeling Savile Row's 1960s wild child Tommy Nutter, Spurr offers two- and three-piece suits in wide stripes and aggressive plaids, to name just two variations, cut with classic proportions and a precision that would've made Nutter proud. There are cozy looking knit sweaters and luxe leather jackets for the less adventurous consumer, but if you're looking to make a statement with your suit this fall, Simon Spurr is your man.
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Calvin Klein: The Takeaway
Embrace the big topcoat for next fall.
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Calvin Klein: The Take
Italo Zucchelli's men's line for Calvin proved why the show is a hot ticket on the men's agenda in New York. For Zucchelli, the future is always front and center. He is one of the few men's designers who truly has a handle on technically advanced fabrics and how to use them in a relaxed and luxurious way. In a line that balanced his trademark economical tailoring with luxurious leathers, the standout pieces made technical statements: floor grazing raglan-sleeved overcoats, shiny-coated leather jackets, and rubberized wool macs.
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Richard Chai: The Takeaway
Whether it means a vest over your coat, or a long knit creeping from beneath your jacket, give Chai's unexpected layering a try.
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Richard Chai:Chai is the kind of designer who can maintain that perfect balance of urban-relaxed, "I did not plan this outfit," with the sophistication of "that dude is not poor." In other words, he made lots of stylish pieces guys will want. Using a utilitarian aesthetic — think union suits — Chai mixes and plays with proportions: a quilted vest went over a topcoat, a long cardigan under a tailored jacket. The polish came from a sober color choice of grays, dark inks, and one particular caramel brown that made for an excellent shawl-collared leather jacket.

Read more: http://www.esquire.com/the-side/style-guides/new-york-fashion-week-fall-2010-mens#ixzz0h6gbft3k

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MICHAEL BASTIAN : Dust off your doc martens. They're officially cool again.
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MICHAEL BASTIAN : Bastian is not about innovation or experimentation. That's a good thing; the designer's clothes are the type that make men feel great. For this season, the models emerged from a shattered window of what looked like an English manor. Hence, the vibe was Brit aristocrat meets preppie with an edge. A rich pallet of honey brown tweeds, bottle greens and mauve made for excellent outerwear including a moleskin coat with piping and slim-cut sport coats. Not to mention, all the cords and cashmere you could want.
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Michael Kors : Frankie Rayder, as seen here. In a box. Oh, the clothes? Layering gray on gray on gray is a permanent hit for men.

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Michael Kors : is renowned for making the best looking runway girls look even better than their best. Faultlessly polished and swathed in his simple luxury, they always look like the archetypal unattainables they are. Which is why we always like his shows. For most men, we suspect, the kind of clothes Kors puts on his girls are the kind of clothes we'd like in an ideal world to see on ours. No need for edgy pretension, irony or hard-edged statement. The kind of beautiful that doesn't make your head hurt. Maybe we're one dimensional, maybe we don't understand. But we don't like 'try hard' in our own clothes so why would we like it in hers? Michael Kors knows this. This show was no exception to Kors' glamorous manifesto, yet there were little touches to grab the attention: the crumpled flannel used in both men’s and women’s coats, the razor-cut slits at the elbows of coats, the weathered leather in men’s jackets and coats. The vibe for both men and women was layered-up leather, cashmere and flannel, perfect for that exclusive mountain hideaway. And we don't mean Grizzly Adams’ log cabin — we mean chalets in St. Moritz, Cortina D'Ampezzo, and Aspen. The styling here was international, yes, but it’s a kind of luxury that is quintessentially American.

Read more: http://www.esquire.com/the-side/style-guides/new-york-fashion-week-fall-2010-mens#ixzz0h6fIKTKF

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